Innovative technology developed to selectively repair newly discovered hair damage, "Melanin crack".
Interviewed in March 2018
Full product renewal in September 2017.
Providing a new type of hair texture, light, sleek and easy to style: FLOWDIA
In September 2017, DEMI COSMETICS, the haircare division of NICCA CHEMICAL that targets hair salons, fully renewed its main brand, "FLOWDIA" (patent pending). After discovering a new type of hair damage, we developed innovative technology to selectively repair this type of hair damage and released a range of products (11 items for in-salon haircare and 11 items for at-home haircare). This series has been received extremely well as it restores the inherent luster of the hair without any stickiness.
Two researchers who played pivotal roles in the commercialization of this product speak about the new FLOWDIA.
FUJII Yoshinori
Asistant Manager
Cosmetics Research Department
Institute of Hair Science & Technology
DEMI CosmeticsCompany Division
AMAYA Minako
Manager
Cosmetics Research Department
Institute of Hair Science & Technology
DEMI CosmeticsCompany Division
Analysis of vertical cross-sections of hair
When developing the new FLOWDIA, we focused on achieving the hair's inherent natural luster, the sleekness that allows you to run your fingers through it. This is because the majority of conventional haircare products repair not only the damaged parts, but excessively attach themselves to all parts of the hair strand, creating a stickiness and an unnatural texture that feels heavy and stiff.
"A product that selectively repairs only the damaged sections." In the process of developing such a product, we focused on the pigment (melanin) in the hair. While it was known that atrophy occurs in melanin that has been damaged by hair dye or UV rays, we discovered that there are also large voids (gaps) in the surrounding area. The conventional way to analyze hair has been to look at a horizontal cross-section and it was thought that melanin was scattered in small granular formations. We did something different though. We looked at vertical cross-sections of hair strands and found that melanin is a series of vertical structures with continuous length and are about ten times larger in size than originally thought. Voids in such large structures means the hair is more likely to become wavy and to scatter light, which diminishes gloss. In addition, it becomes easy for the hair to tear vertically.Unless the hair is cared for, further damage, such as split ends, will occur.
We named this void the "Melanin crack" and set about developing haircare products specialized in this area.
Attaches like a balloon and repairs damaged sections
Four types of shampoos and conditioners, depending on hair type, are sold at hair salons for homeuse. There are also three types of leave-intreatments available.
In order to repair these Melanin cracks that cause serious hair damage, after much trial and error on our part, we succeeded in developing new haircare technology that selectively repairs only the damaged parts. The Ballnaid system, as we call it, targets calcium, which easily accumulates in the melanin cracks. The repair component reacts selectively to this damaged portion and repairs it. A highly effective repair can be expected as the repair component attaches and encases itself around the damaged area like a water balloon. This also prevents the repair component from escaping.
In experiments with women in their 40s, the Melanin cracks in the melanin tissue after the hair was bleached were 24%. After one treatment with the Ballnaid system, this dropped to as low as 7%. This figure is lower than the rate seen in what should be relatively undamaged sections of newly grown hair (Melanin crack rate of 13%).
This product range has been very well received by those who have experienced the new FLOWDIA, which is now being used in over 3,000 salons across Japan and a new line of FLOWDIA is scheduled for release this June.We will continue to strive to develop products that customers need as FLOWDIA solidifies its standing as a premier haircare brand.
