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Hair colors are lustrous and hair-friendly.

Interviewed in September 2018

Gloss Dye, the world's first dye.

In September 2018, DEMI Cosmetics, our hair cosmetics business for beauty salons, launched the new hair color Le POLISSAGE. This product contains Gloss Dye, the world's first new dye we have developed. This hair color has the characteristics of being gentle on the hair and scalp, while at the same time realizing a glossy and not dull color development. The two researchers in charge of development were asked about the characteristics of the products and their development history.

AMAYA Minako

supervisor,
Cosmetics Research Department
Institute of Hair Science & Technology
DEMI Cosmetics Company

MIYAMOTO Takeo

Cosmetics Research Department
Institute of Hair Science & Technology
DEMI Cosmetics Company

Damageless, Low Odor, Low Irritation

Le POLISSAGE contains Gloss Dye, the world's first hair color dye developed and applied for a patent. Oxidative dyes used in hair colors of the alkali type, which are common hair colorants, require an alkaline agent to penetrate the hair and an oxidizing agent to develop the color. However, alkaline agents are burdensome to the hair and scalp, which are weakly acidic, and oxidation by the oxidizing agent damages the hair tissue. In contrast, Gloss Dyes do not require oxidizing agents because they are developed beforehand, and they do not need to penetrate the dye to the center of the hair, nor do they require alkaline agents.
In contrast, Gloss Dye does not require oxidizer because is was pre-colored, and does not need to penetrate the dye to the center of the hair, nor require alkaline agents. Therefore, Le POLISSAGE is a damageless, low-odor, and low-irritation, and its biggest feature is that it can be used repeatedly even for those who have been concerned about hair and scalp damage and have avoided their hair color.
Oxidative dyes also cause some dyes that are different from the target colors that are generated in the process of color development during treatment. However, Gloss Dye is colored in advance and purified to remove impurities. As a result, it produces a bright color free of unnecessary dust and smell. Moreover, because the dye molecules are of uniform size and are heavily stained near the cuticle layer on the surface of the hair, the light reflects uniformly and gives the hair a natural luster. Le POLISSAGE takes advantage of these Gloss Dye. One of the advantages of Gloss Dyes is that the dye molecules are slightly larger than those of oxidative dyes. The surface of the hair is stained firmly, while the dye does not penetrate into the center, so the hair does not stick, and the fingers are smooth. In addition, since it is difficult to enter the scalp, it is possible to greatly reduce the risk of allergy.

With the knowledge and cooperation of Chemical Unit

The development of this new technology was started with the synthesis of dyes in order to clarify the fading process of hair colors. In the beauty industry, it was common sense to ensure that oxidizing dyes are oxidized and developed in the hair, but while our researching, it was found that dyes developed beforehand are also used to produce colored hair. We have begun developing new products using this dye because it is damageless if it is not necessary to oxidize in the hair. For commercialization, it is essential to synthesize dyestuffs stably in large quantities and with high purity. However, we were able to find out how to do this through the knowledge and cooperation with our researchers of the Chemicals Unit.
After the Dye was completed, we worked to make it easier for hairdressers to use it. The world's first dye had not been accumulate data, and more than 500 patterns of water content, pH value, type and amount of surfactants, etc. were prototyped and dyed into hair tufts, narrowing down the conditions for easy-to-use and good dyeing.
Le POLISSAGE means glossy in French. Approximately thirty years ago, we named our color treatment technology (*1) to be excellent in gloss, which was a great hit. However, many beauty technicians have used POLISSAGE, and since it is easy to imagine the greatest feature of our products, "gloss," we revived our name this time. At the time of launch, we have 22 colors, but in the future we will work to increase added value by further expanding color variations and improving color retention.

Glossary

(*1) Color treatment technology using DEMI -Color, the industry's first acidic oxidizing dye type hair colorant released in 1985, was named POLISSAGE to create a new market for beauty salons. It won a number of industry awards.